What is your story about?
I'm a 32 year old male who developed lateral tendinitis from climbing. My treatment approach involved successfully utilizing NSAIDs, Armaid, eccentric strengthening and eccentric stretching. I'm still dealing with some downstream consequences of the tendinitis that have affected my right arm, shoulder, and back.
What symptoms did you experience and how did they progress over time?
I developed some lateral tendinitis after a Red Rocks trip in November.
What was your treatment approach?
First, what I tried was icing, NSAIDs, eccentric stretching, pushing exercises, a wrist supporter device, elbow support device, Armaid, eccentric resistance work with a band, and finally eccentric resistance work with a dumbbell.
What worked? Definitely the NSAIDs seemed to help a lot with general discomfort. The Armaid was a god send, because it seemed that my forearm muscle was extremely tight and enflamed, which pulled on the tendon all the more. Finally, the eccentric dumbbell work was a god send. It's the last thing I tried, and I started with too much weight and too low reps at first. ...(more)
Did you resume climbing after developing your approach?
I climbed throughout this process, at a lower intensity and tried to focus on volume. That didn't seem to aggravate my elbow or make it worse. I also found some good information on NOT ever completely resting for a tendon injury. It needs movement at low intensity to heal properly. I did not wait for the pain to reach absolute zero, and from what I read you shouldn't. The dumbbell eccentrics don't need to be pain free, but they should not make the pain worse afterwards. At this point, I can climb nearly at full capacity, but I can still feel pain if I palpitate my outer elbow. I'm just continu ...(more)
Did the tendinitis completely resolve?
Once I started those eccentric exercises things fell into place quickly. Only problem is I stop doing them once things get better, but not completely healed. So, it comes back a little here and there, but I just do the exercises again and it disappears.
Now I need to focus on my whole right arm, shoulder, and back. Because of the tendonitis I think the whole area is really tight and needs a lot of rolling out. I get the sense the muscles have seized into some pretty gnarly knots/trigger points. I assume this is due to being on the same are as the tendonitis, and since I didn't stop climbing ...(more)
Is there anything you wish you'd done differently in your recovery?
I was stupid, and I tried climbing throughout the healing process BEFORE I found what worked for me. This probably extended the healing time.
What advice do you have for others with this condition?
A) Do NOT over climb. You need to rest.
B) Recovery for me is more key than warming up... although I always warm up at least 20 minutes on V1-V3, then another 20 minutes on V4-V5. I also climb V7 (barely) at my gym, and I use my warm up time to practice technique. For recovery, I use an Armaid regularly. Times I've stopped using it are the times tendonitis can set it. I also stretch my forearms throughout the day at work. To get rid of tendonitis, the best thing I've found for me is to do eccentric exercises with very light weight for high reps.